Backpacking Grand Canyon: Rim-to-Rim
After a few failed attempts to get the backcountry permit, my friend Kristen and I were finally able to get the ideal dates for our rim-to-rim adventure. Since it was both our first-time spending time at the bottom of the canyon, we opted for two-nights, giving us plenty of time to enjoy the canyon and not feel rushed. Our trip ran from October 6th to the 8th, only 4 days before the water was scheduled to be shut-off for the season!
Day 1
Starting at the North Kaibab Trailhead through the Bright Angel Canyon, heading down ~4,200 feet. Our first night was at the Cottonwood Campground to a nice, secluded spot. Unfortunately, we were not able to get a site along the river since we got there later in the day. The hike down the weather and temperature were perfect, the trail was not too busy, and the views were stunning. We enjoyed our dinner of day old and cold pizza. We decided to make it an early night as the previous 24-hours had been non-stop traveling. Going from Portland to Phoenix, drove hour hours to the South Rim for the night, before a five-hour bus ride to get to the starting point on the North Rim.
Day 2
We were back on the trail around 7:30, continuing the Kiabab Trail. Another good day on the trail, with a quick stop at Phantom Ranch before heading onto our campsite at the Bright Angel Campground, this time we early and were able to get a spot along the river. From leaving the trailhead the day before we had dropped ~5,740 feet. We spent the afternoon enjoying the canyon and a quick day hike to the Colorado River and along the start of the South Kiabab Trail crossing the Black Bridge. Were we did have to wait for a group of mules to cross the bridge.
That night we went to a talk about search and rescue by one of the rangers and treated ourselves to dinner at the Phantom Ranch. Another wonderful day, though much warmer than the evening before.
Day 3
Alarm went off at 5:30 and we were on the trail at 5:55, the sun was not up so we started our hike with headlamps as we made our way along the River Trail and crossed the Silver Bridge. Not as impressive as the Black bridge the day before, but still got us where we needed to be. Today was going to be the longest milage day at 9.5 miles climbing 4,330 feet to the South Rim. We made excellent time, while still taking the time to make sure we were looking up from the trail to see the ever-changing landscape.
It felt like no time at all when we reached Indian Garden (which has now officially been renamed to, Havasupai Garden new signage will be put up soon) where we took our first break and refilled some water. Soon we were climbing again, and by this point the grade was starting to change as we were now on the Bright Angel Trail. We continued at a steady pace and reached the trailhead in only 5 hours and 5 minutes! We celebrated with Cokes before finding our rental car and showers before heading back to our hotel and the pool to start are recovery.
The trip was everything that I could have hoped for, from the company along the trail to the people we met. Though, next time I think I will just do it in a day and so I do not have to pack so much.
